Willapa Bar - 1st podcast

I felt the need for some wave action, but was looking for something a bit more interesting then another surf session at Westport. As this was a last minute, wake up in the morning, I need some salt water on my face kind of thing, this was also going to be a solo trip. A few weeks ago, I had finished the excellent book, “The Pacific Graveyard” by Jim Gibbs, and was surprised to find that at one time the bar leading into Willapa Bar had received a substantial amount of shipping on it’s way to South Bend, and Raymond. Unlike its larger and more notorious Columbia River Bar with its jetty system and dredged channel, I remember seeing this bar as just one massive and multiple set of breakers. Ships crossing this bar? Here was a great excuse to do a bit of research and get wet at the same time.



This would have to be a quick visit, and after a hurried peek at the chart and topos of the area, I decided to launch from Tokeland and paddle down to the bar. I had only been through Tokeland once for a quick drive through, but was intrigued by this little community of weather beaten homes on the north side of Willapa Bay. The historic Tokeland Hotel still operates, but try as I might, I just couldn’t picture this place being the bustling seaside resort of the 1890’s when steamers from South Bend and Nahcotta brought as many as 500 people a day here. Scouting out a place to launch in the morning, I was drawn to the old abandoned Coast Guard station which had been built in the 1920’s. It was low water so I scrambled down the break water to explore the old guardian with its distinctive boat skid. It didn’t take much imagination to feel the winter storms trying to beat this house into submission with the surf-men launching into the teeth of a Sou’wester for a rescue on the bar.

I found a nice little protected beach to launch from in the morning just to the east of the marina boat ramp. Just as I was getting ready to wrap it up and return to my camp, an old salt by the name of Barry ambled over and struck up a conversation. Turns out Barry, a 30 year Navy veteran and his bride, have lived in Tokeland all of his retired life and he was kind enough to share a bit of his local knowledge with me. He had enough humorous stories and tales of the area to easily fill a book; I hope run into him again one day. Although we were chatting under blue skies, we discussed the weather forecast for Saturday, which was SW winds 25 to 35 kts, and he promised to monitor his VHF after hearing my plans. It was nice to know someone would be listening if I needed help. On the drive through North Cove into Tokeland, I had not seen a single craft out near the bar or in the Bay.

I had listened to the rain beat on my tent since midnight, but as I loaded gear early Saturday morning I was protected from any wind and had my fingers crossed. Any hopes of a mellow paddle where quickly dispelled as I headed out around Toke Point into the wind. Low water was at 12:45 pm and it didn’t take long to see that I was going to be playing a cat and mouse game with the many shoals that run throughout the bay. In fact Willapa Bay had originally been named Shoalwater Bay by John Meares in 1788 for its many shoals and shallow water. I estimated the winds at BFT 5, but as there where on my quarter, I was able to make headway. My visibility was hampered by the continuous rainfall but all I had to do was follow the roar of surf.

As I approached the first set of breakers the wind shifted out of the SE creating an offshore breeze and after a quick ride or two I decided to head for the shore for some lunch. Looking at the tops of breakers being ripped off and blown back out to sea, I decided to limit my time on the bar, but it was obvious just how treacherous and unpredictable the seas are in this area. I certainly don’t envy the many Captains trying to cross this bar with a full load of lumber from the Port of Raymond.

On the beach, I huddled under my beach igloo, eating my soup and attempting to record Essex Explorations’ first podcast. The quality of the recording is questionable, as the wind, sleet and blowing fabric created a roar of background noise, but it does give some idea of the conditions I was paddling in.

It was a much longer paddle back with the wind just slightly off the bow and with many more of the shoals exposed. I was beat when I finally reached my takeout but it was certainly worth the trip to get a slight glimpse back into this areas rich maritime history and I’ll undoubtedly will be back to continue the journey. North Cove seems to be missing a lighthouse...