Lighthouses – Part 1

We started our 5 day lighthouse odyssey last Thursday morning by driving down to Cannon Beach. Jason had been suffering from bronchitis, but had a supply of antibiotics on hand along with high hopes of making a complete recovery. After making some exploratory detours, and a bit of road-side repairs when we noticed that we’d lost oil pressure, we arrived to snag the last available campsite at the local RV Camp. Although it was a bit late in the day to get on the water, we did use the opportunity to scout out our launch site at Indian Beach in the Ecola State Park. Catching our first glimpse of the lighthouse perched on its rock soon had the adrenaline pumping, and us mapping out our strategies. We also ran into Seaside to do a bit of scouting for any future paddles, and found the northern trail head to the Tillamook Head loop.

We arrived early the next morning to beat the surfers; it was nice being able to concentrate on getting both the paddling and filming gear situated without interruptions. It seemed Neptune was giving his blessing to our endeavor by granting calm seas and we punched out through the surf with no issues. Once on the other side we rafted up for some last minute adjustments and headed NW out to the light. Tillamook light is relatively close to shore just barely over a mile but even in that short distance I noticed that the current was really pulling us to the south. That current has a murderous history for those attempting to reach the rock as James A. Gilbbs Tillamook Light: A True Account of Oregon’s Tillamook Lighthouse records. James Gibbs, a well know maritime historian, was actually stationed at the lighthouse shortly after World War II, and not only documents it history, but give a very entertaining perspective on life at what was considered the worse lighthouse duty in the Pacific.

As we neared the base of the lighthouse we soon saw a half dozen California Sea Lions hauled out on the rock which prevented us from attempting to land on the rock itself. However, I’m not sure we would have been successful even if the sea lions hadn’t claimed the rock. Every 6th or 7th wave that swirled around the base was large enough to push green water over the ledge, and I suspect would have easily pulled us off. Such was the fate of John R. Trewaves, master mason with years of experience erecting lighthouses off the walls of England. He was summoned for a construction survey and on September 18, 1879 was sucked from the rock while attempting to gain a foothold. His body was never recovered.

As we circled the lighthouse we could see that the structure, despite having been purchased in 1995 by Eternity at Sea of Portland for use as a columbarium, was in heavy disrepair. The old lantern room which had guided so many ships to safety had been encased in iron sheeting which was now rusted through; very sad. As I rested to the seaward of the lighthouse looking east with Tillamook Head providing the backdrop, I tried to imagine what the proud light would have looked like while withstanding the fury of one of the many storms it defied. It’s recorded that in the gale of October, 1934 seas submerged the entire station, and hundred pound boulders where through against the tower damaging the light. Small fish and seaweed where deposited in the lantern room; 133 feet above sea level.

As midday approached we finally turned our bows to the NE to explore some of the head and leave the lighthouse in the care of the sea lions. Midway between the lighthouse and the head there is a small rock which is awash at high tide, but catches the wave at low, called appropriately enough, Half Mile Rock. As we sat to the leeward side watching the waves thunder against the rock, Jason intentionally capsized and rolled a few times to cool off. The exertion had flared his bronchitis, and he was running a slight temperature. However, he was as determined as ever to continue the paddle to the head and we headed to the north end where was saw a large field of sea stacks.

As we entered the stacks I felt as if I had entire a church. We were surrounded by Pelagic Cormorants (Phalacrocorax pelagicus), Brown Pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis), and Common Murres (Uria aalge). It was surreal with the birds seemingly unconcerned with our presence. We paddled through the stacks until we could see Seaside in the distance. Slowly we turned south and scouted for a beach to land and have lunch on but there were all cobblestone with a large shore break that would have damaged the boats. Instead we retraced our steps back to our launching beach and had lunch there.

It had been quite an eventful day, and with Jason feeling somewhat under the weather we mutually agreed to call it a day and save our energy for the second part of our trip; Destruction Island.

To be continued…